Backroads of Spain

Charlie Leocha · July 31, 2008

My favorite times in Spain have been on backcountry drives of discovery. Madrid, Barcelona and Seville are modern, sleek and efficient. The Costa del Sol is packed with beachgoers and high-rises lining endless sand. But only a few kilometers away, around the knoll, down a river, the Old World heart of Spain still beats.

 

Discovering new magic at Pamplona’s Running of the Bulls

Anna Leocha · June 20, 2008

anna.leochaAnna Leocha has already been to Pamplona’s famed Running of the Bulls nine times — and she is only 19 years old. This summer she returns to discover the grown-up side of the fiesta — bulls, dancing and wine — after spending her early years immersed in the surprising family side of the festival — spinning giants, churros and fun fair rides.

 

Guidebooks to Andalucia

Charlie Leocha · May 19, 2008

Finding the perfect guidebook for any trip is always difficult. Here are some pros and cons of guidebooks we have used for travels through Andalucia.

 

Spanish caves, olives and ceramics

Charlie Leocha · May 18, 2008

gongora.pots.leochaBack in those days, the mid-1980s, the longest stretch of straight road through the mountainous terrain and the olive groves was perhaps a couple hundred meters. Those tortuous roads through dusty hills lined with seemingly endless olive trees insulated both Guadix and Ubeda from the tourist limelight.

 

Arab baths of Granada, Spain

Charlie Leocha · May 16, 2008

arabbathgranada.leochaTwo sets of Arab baths in Granada offer two different points of view of the Moorish Hammams. One is the ruin of the oldest public bath in the city. The other is a functioning recreation of an Arab bath in which visitors can wallow in the enfolding warmth and soothing sounds of the waters.

 

An Alhambra state of mind

Charlie Leocha · May 13, 2008

AlhambraArch.leochaLooming above the tight downtown streets of Granada, the Alhambra dominates the city skyline. This fortress-palace-garden preserves the most complete vestiges of the Moorish occupation of Spain.

 

White Towns to Ronda and Granada

Charlie Leocha · May 12, 2008

RondaTiles.leochaSometimes plans don’t meet expectations. That was the story of today — filled with spectacular natural panoramas, ho-hum sights, too many tourists, changes to loved locations and disappointing restaurants.

 

Take Seville slowly

Charlie Leocha · May 10, 2008

AlcazarSeville.leochaOnce, I used to scramble from sight to sight trying to squeeze in as much experience as possible. Today, enjoying what I visit to the fullest is far more important than visiting everything.

 

Seville to Cordoba and back

Charlie Leocha · May 7, 2008

islamscript.leochaMondays in Seville are quiet, not the day to plan for sightseeing. The Alcazar is closed, the market is basically shut down and many restaurants make Monday their day of rest. It seemed like a perfect day for Cordoba.

 

Islam in Spain

Charlie Leocha · May 5, 2008

During the Islamic period Spain grew into one of the major cultural capitals of the western world. Spain led the civilized Middle Eastern and Mediterranean world in philosophy, agriculture, medicine, literature and the arts.