Gone in a puff of smoke: Why I jumped off a cruise ship

by Anita Dunham-Potter on January 16, 2009

Launched last month in Naples by Sophia Loren, the MSC Fantasia is billed as “the most beautiful ship in the world.” Indeed, the 133,500-ton, 3,900-passenger vessel is a stunner, full of Italian ambiance.

MSC Cruises is little-known in the U.S, but it’s the fastest growing cruise line in the world. The family-run line started in 1987 and is a division of Mediterranean Shipping Company (MSC), the world’s second-largest cargo ship operator encompassing some 400 vessels. The company has built up a 10-strong fleet of new cruise ships since 2003, and hopes to make a huge splash with Fantasia.

Italian beauty

On the outside, MSC Fantasia looks much like any other mega ship that’s built as a destination unto itself. However, the real beauty lies within. The most important factor onboard the Fantasia is its advanced design and ultra modern technology to minimize its carbon footprint. It has already won accolades from European environmental groups. The ship boasts many unique features in a refined decor of golden tones, colored marbles, mosaics, glass works and sculptures.

But perhaps the biggest achievement was making this vast vessel feel amazingly intimate.

As you journey around the ship, you pass from one distinct area into another, each a stylish triumph of good taste. Among the many public spaces are standouts such as the charming, shop-lined Piazza San Giorgio, an Italian-style square in Ligurian tradition paved in stone with terracotta border and a frescoed ceiling simulating night and day. Also worth mentioning are the avant-garde Manhattan Jazz Bar, the Sports Bar with memorabilia including world champion Giacomo Agostini’s motorbike and the romantic L’Etoile restaurant, inspired by the Parisian Belle Epoque, with à la carte French cuisine. A hot spot is the Liquid Disco, in bright pink resin, which rises on stilts over the fountains of the Aquapark with ‘pools’ of glass on the walls and the dance floor, and specially shaped sofas and seats.

Like all new cruise ships, Fantasia has abundant entertainment options. The spectacular three-story, 1,603-seat, high-tech Avanguardia theatre hosts various entertainment acts. Innovative features include a Formula 1 simulator and a 4D cinema. There’s a casino and bars everywhere you look – 20 to be exact.

Because Fantasia is designed to operate year-round in the Mediterranean, it’s the first ship in the MSC fleet to offer a pool area under a magrodome (sliding-glass roof). As well, its outdoor pool, called Aquapark, is not only the largest onboard but also features an outdoor movie screen and 150 illuminated water fountains. Another key sun deck feature is the adults-only Zen area with really ultramodern sun loungers. For children, the North Pole mini-club features polar bears and igloos along with counselor organized activities, while the teens get their own vibrant disco, Graffiti.

One of Fantasia’s main attractions is the 17,384 square feet Aurea Spa with feng shui layout, stone-accented walls and light green soothing tones. There’s a vast gym with panoramic wave-watching views and each treatment room overlooks the sea. The spa employs Balinese therapists and for the first time is managed by the line itself. Richard Sasso, president and CEO of MSC Cruises USA, says it was important that the line manage its own spa. “Wellness is a very important and other concessionaires are too pushy, trying to sell products. We don’t believe in that, we want our guests to have a relaxing experience.” Bravo! I wish more cruise lines would do this.

Of Fantasia’s 1,637 staterooms 80 percent are outside staterooms most have balconies and there are 109 suites between 193-699 square feet in size. The standard cabins are nicely appointed in dark wood and dark color schemes. The bathrooms are, unfortunately, a disappointment just basic white that doesn’t fit in with the overall opulence of the ship.

If you want real accommodation elegance the Fantasia offers the Yacht Club. This VIP area located in the front of the ship on Deck 15 and 16 features 99 suites, a bar, solarium, pool with a sky dome, lounge with a transparent ceiling, and round-the-clock concierge and butler service. Stairs and some floors are made of Swarovski crystal, and passengers have use of private elevators. Of course, this luxury doesn’t come cheap; each Yacht Club guest will shell out approximately $4,000 a week for the privilege.

Fantasia has two main dining rooms– the two-story Red Velvet and Il Cerchio d’Oro and two buffet venues – Zanzibar and L’Africana. The ship also features three specialty pay-as-you-go restaurants — El Sombrero is a casual Tex-Mex-themed restaurant, L’Etoile, on Deck 15, serves fine French cuisine, and Italian La Cantina Toscana restaurant in the Top Sail observation lounge serves pizza and antipasti. There is of course room service, but be forewarned – you are charged for items ordered.

I have to say I was so disappointed with the food during my two-day preview of Fantasia. Oh, how I wished the cuisine had lived up to the wonderful scents of garlic, onions and Parmesan that permeated from the galleys. I experienced three very good pasta dishes during my two days onboard, but that was it. The breakfast and lunch buffet was the worst I’ve experienced on any ship – selections were sparse and the entrees uninspired. Additionally, dining in the ship’s main restaurants was frustrating. Service was a bit rough around the edges as servers seemed overwhelmed and most did not have a good command of the English language. To be fair, I did not experience the ala carte dining areas, which I was told by those sailing longer voyages, was quite good.

Cigarette beast

I’ve cruised in Europe many times and knew that my shipmates would be a cosmopolitan mix with a number of smokers, but I’ve never been inundated by cigarette smoke like I was on Fantasia. It appeared that every European decked out in Gucci and Armani always had a cigarette in hand. Upon entering the coffee bar Il Cappuccino, I was assaulted with clouds of cigarette smoke. This smoke ended up trickling down to other parts of the atrium area where you couldn’t escape it.

One area I should have been able to escape the smoke was my stateroom. That was not to be. I was awakened both nights at 3:30 a.m. sharp because a passenger or passengers around me chain smoked and the smoke seeped into my stateroom. It was hell — so much so that I had trouble breathing and had no recourse but to spend a lot of time on my balcony in chilly 40 degree weather. I called down to the reception desk to see if they could do anything. Again, I encountered someone who did not speak English well.

I brought up my issue with Sasso and he seemed genuinely upset. “MSC strongly discourages smoking in the cabins,” he said. Yes, there’s a sign on the balcony door stating “No Smoking On Balconies” but it adds that ashtrays are provided in the cabins and there’s even one attached on the wall in the bathroom. That’s not really discouraging.

The MSC Fantasia is a gorgeous ship; however, the beauty was literally clouded by the non-stop smoking onboard. Sadly, I just couldn’t wait to get off – in fact I ran off the ship as soon as I could.

If you go:

MSC Fantasia sails 7-day Mediterranean cruises from Genoa, Italy calling at Naples, Palermo, Tunis, Palma, Barcelona and Marseilles. MSC caters to families and has a generous “Kids Sail Free” offer is that is available on all its ships when kids ages 17 and younger share a stateroom with two full-fare-paying adults. Fares start at $750 per person. Visit MSC Cruises Web site for more details.

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{ 15 comments… read them below or add one }

John F January 16, 2009 at 12:15 pm

So, you could not breathe and could not eat! Not great selling points for the cruise for sure. But hey, maybe you could lose some weight from the bad food and the nicotine high?

Anita Dunham-Potter January 16, 2009 at 12:28 pm

Hey John,
Actually, that could be a big selling point for the cruise– to fashion models, anyway. They do that the guys will follow — all guys need is beer and they did have that onboard. Back to basics.

Anita

Bruce H January 16, 2009 at 1:56 pm

If you look at their website, their ships are supposed to be 90% smoking-free with only a few spots available for smoking. Cabins, most restaurants and most common spaces are supposed to be smoke free. Sounds like it isn’t working.

Kweed January 16, 2009 at 2:44 pm

EEEeeewwwwm ashtrays in the bathroom?
Perhaps the yuckiest thought is the ‘kids sail free’ offer. Who wouldn’t want their kids submerged in a puddle of secondhand smoke?

“My parents took me on a cruise and all I got was this crummy emphysema”

Estuardo Zenteno January 16, 2009 at 2:45 pm

Question: why US nationals think they have to speak their native English all over the world.
You seem to put it in a context that if somebody outside the US don’t speak English is a fault, and a sin.
At least they are triyng, to comunicate.
In regards of the smoke, well everybody has a point, but if in Europe people smoke, just don’t go there, go someplace else

Have a nice sailing

Estuardo

Anita Dunham-Potter January 16, 2009 at 3:14 pm

Hello Estuardo,
When the cruise is marketed towards U.S. Nationals it must have English speakers. The problem I found on MSC was that the majority of the crew was multi-lingual and that’s a very tough thing to do. I even tried French with one worker and he understood me better. The problem is when you tell a waiter your menu choices and they bring you the wrong thing each time there’s a problem. Of course there was the problem of trying to convey to the waiter that what he brought wasn’t what I ordered. It was frustrating. I’ve been on a lot of cruise ships but it’s clear that the Fantasia’s crew was overwhelmed and had only a basic grasp of English.

As for smoking, oh yes, I get the Euro smoking culture. I normally don’t have a problem with cigarette smoke. But the number of smokers on this ship was enormous. The big problem was my stateroom — that should not have happened. Now I understand this isn’t a problem on their Caribbean cruises because there is a bigger mix of North Americans onboard.

Best
Anita

Cynthia B January 17, 2009 at 12:06 am

The Fantasia sounds like a beautiful ship and I’d love to cruise on her “smoke and all”. My suggestion is that with all the technology out there maybe the waiters and anyone else that works on board that’s trying to understand multiple languages, ” ON ANY CRUISE SHIP OR OTHER WISE ” could have a device that translated any language into there own so there wouldn’t be such a language barrier. Call me silly, but I know there is such a thing as a voice translator! I don’t know why that hasn’t been implemented? When I book my trip I sure don’t want to spend have the time translating; which sometimes is kind of fun but when it comes to waiting for that mouth watering Lobster I just ordered I sure don’t want to be served with a bowl of chili

Estuardo Zenteno January 17, 2009 at 12:20 pm

Annita
I understand your point I am from Mexico, so my main is Spanish, of course I understand perfect English, some italian etc. I cruised many parts of the world without problems comunicating. I travel with friends to South America, several times, and Princess even have Spanish menus….My guess is they should have menus in several lenguages, according to the are of the world, maybe there is a solution. It easier to print onboard….What i don’t understand is why so many US people think that is an obligation to speak only English….this I seen many times….I seen Americans very rude when they don’t uderstand

Thanks for your reply

Estuardo

John F January 18, 2009 at 9:29 am

Estuardo…you are right and it is embarrassing (to me as an American) when they get rude because they don;t understand the native language. Ever notice that they tend to yell and get loud?

Bill January 18, 2009 at 11:19 pm

There are lots of people in Europe that don’t smoke, and lots of them that hate the second hand smoke. This absurd story that “Europe is a smoking culture” is just a “smoke screen” to detract from the fact that cigarette smoke is bad for you, affects people around you and that Europe has some of the absolutly most inconsiderate smokers on the planet. It is not a “freedom of expression” to ignore a no smoking sign, it is simply ignorant. I agree that Americans shouting in English loudly is offensive, but I”ll take that anyday over a European who thinks it is their constitutional right to smoke wherever and whenever they want. I went to the Eiffel Tower on the top, which is a “non smoking” monument and there were no fewer than 8 smokers puffing away. There were ample signs at the entrance, if you want to smoke, don’t go up the tower. I’ll never set foot on that cruise ship and am very thankful to Anita for pointing it out. As for the two or three considerate smokers out there, yes please continue not smoking in the non smoking areas, I will avoid the smoking areas without complaint and both sides will be happy.

ALEX January 19, 2009 at 7:07 am

Anita: you said: “When the cruise is marketed towards U.S. Nationals it must have English speakers.” If this were true, then why do they market China or Greece or Turkey or the Machu Pichu ruins of Peru in the U.S., if they don´t speak English as their native language? You should remember that you are the visitors in Europe and you shouldn´t expect everybody to speak English. And if you refer only to cruises, let me tell you that NCL, for instance, markets Med cruises for Spanish people, but there are just a couple of crew members who speak it, and the daily onboard newsletter was so poorly translated, that those who failed to speak English didn´t even know lots of interesting things and activities on board.

Martin January 19, 2009 at 7:25 am

The American ships marketed towards Europeans either for Europe or the Caribbean crew memebrs DO NOT speak German/ Italian/ Spanish, just English, especially in the Caribbean , and you don´t see any European complaining that they don´t speak their language on board. It´s time to change your minds.
Regarding smoke, I think you should read the Fatasia Review Cruise Critic Message Board (the reviews for the maiden voyage are trrible, I admit) where the editor in chief gives a totally different point of view.

Estuardo Zenteno January 19, 2009 at 2:39 pm

John.
It happens all the time “they yell and get rude”……..I have a good solution:

Let’s all learn Esperanto ……..Problem solved!!!

Happy sailings to all

Estuardo

barbara September 12, 2009 at 2:59 pm

oh anita you are a pill; now that most americans have quit guess what obeisity is way up; just as evil as cigarretes; your complaint about the bathroom being white big deal; how long were you in your state room; could you have not pointed your items out on the menu; or asked at the table if anyone spoke english or french; your ports of call should have made you quite content; maybe you should stick to a disney cruise; ill skip reading or even going to your blog.

barbara September 13, 2009 at 7:04 am

annita; i juat went through 56 reviews of the fortuna 37 were 4 or 5 starsthat included carribean and mediterranean; you were on the ship for two days ; do you think it is fair to evaluate based on two days; why didnt you speciffically describe the meals you were unhappy with; from the reviewsthe breakfasts sounded fine; fortuna is not listed as a nonsmoking ship; did you vist any of the ports of call ; did you pay for the cruise or was it a freebie .you as a cruise reviewer must have been aware that only 15 percent of its passengers were Americans; i think a simple i would not recommend this ship for people with serious issues on smoking been sufficient; what about your experience with entertainment,etc.your review was so biased ; 37 out of 56 is not a bad figure; did you go to any ports ; the price was fantastic considering children free ; use the wonderful facilities you described;you were just aggravated because of smoking and the lack of enough english speaking staff very provincial attitude.

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