Almost smack in the middle of Graubunden, the province in the southeast corner of Switzerland, lays the quiet village of Salouf with about 200 inhabitants. Without perspective, this grouping of buildings and barns is only another sleepy mountain village, however, Salouf comes alive with history.
I had the opportunity to stay with Giatgen-Peder Fontana and his wife, Ingi Buol-Fontana in their restored 14th century home for two nights of bucolic bliss. Giatgen (Jack to those who can’t manage the traditional Romansh name) figures that he is the 30th generation of his family to reside in this mountain home.
The family palazzo, built around an old stone tower, once used to be a way station and fortification to protect the trading goods on the Julia Pass road from Italy. This road, important in the Roman days became even more strategic when this Romansh province served as a vital link in the trading routes from Venice to Aachen in Germany.
Giatgen, a lawyer and historian, waxes poetically about his region. He still has a similar mindset to a medieval lord within his valley. He is still, like his ancestor Benedict Fontana who was the leader in Graubunden’s fight for independence, a leader in his small town. He strives to bring new sources of agricultural income to the farmers who maintain the green pastures, hunt in the traditional ways, herd cows, make cheeses, churn butter, and maintain a supply of fresh eggs.
The region’s history according to Giatgen revolves around trade and the Surses (the valley’s Romansh name) cultural ties to the Italian side of the Alps. The trading route provided the locals a good income; hence, the architecture is square and stone villas like one might see in Italy. Interestingly, the wooden chalets that are the picture-postcard image of Switzerland are from the once poorer regions of Switzerland that did not have the benefit of trading routes running through their region.
Trading routes throughout history are two-edged swords. They provide income and riches, but they also are something that competing powers fight over. During what was called the 30 Years War, the Hapsburgs (The Holy Roman Empire) of Austria (allied with Spain) competed with the Sforzas of Milano and with the Venetians for control of this vital hub of trading that touched on each of their spheres of influence. During that time this region of Switzerland was faced with regular small skirmishes along the trading roads, hence, the fortified towers and accompanying troops.
Eventually, the Graubunden region of Switzerland quieted and trading lanes shifted towards Innsbruck and the Brenner Pass and through the San Bernardino Pass that brought goods more directly from Italy to Thusis and then to Chur.
History’s fate of relative isolation has bestowed these grassy mountain pastures, wooden chalets and rugged ridges with a peacefulness that is difficult to find only hours away from international business pressures.
The Surses economy, cut off from trade, returned back to a mainly agricultural community focused on lumber and dairy products and eventually developed some of the most extensive tourist industries in Switzerland.
Only a mountain ridge away from tucked-away Surses, St. Moritz is one of the top luxury resorts in the world. Down the valley on a torturous road that passes through a spectacular tunnel Davos and Klosters cater to skiers and snowboarders that flock to the Parsenns snowfields. To the west, Arosa, Flims, Laax and Lenzerheide all have extensive lift systems covering ski and snowboard resorts larger than anything on America’s east coast.
Nothing moves quickly in this region of Switzerland, but Salouf and Surses are slowly moving into the tourist economy one chalet at a time. In the summer, these hills, hiking paths and bicycling routes are spectacular. In the winter, the region’s towns are less than an hour from more than a half-dozen world-class resorts.
It’s not a bad place, at any time of the year, to almost step off of the planet and take advantage of this gift of history. Regenerate, relax and regroup before heading back to the rat race.
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I very much enjoyed your post on this lesser known region of Switzerland where you can still get off the beaten path and unwind in peace and quiet but close to major centers. It’s something that not many people outside the country are aware of. I’m glad you had a great time and maybe even picked up some Romansh.